Jackson Hole, Wyoming
The mountain. The valley. The wildlife. The Cowboy Bar. In that order.
In this guide
01 — Why Jackson Hole
The valley that has everything and knows it.
Jackson Hole is the name for the valley — a glacially carved basin in northwest Wyoming surrounded by the Teton Range to the west and the Gros Ventre Range to the east. Jackson is the town. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) is the ski mountain. Grand Teton National Park is right there. Yellowstone is an hour north. The National Elk Refuge sits at the edge of town. The Snake River runs through it all.
Very few places on earth pack this much into one valley. A world-class ski mountain with 4,139 feet of vertical. Two of America’s most spectacular national parks within an hour. Wildlife viewing that rivals anything in the Lower 48. Luxury hotels and serious restaurants. And a Town Square with elk antler arches and a saloon where the barstools are saddles, because Wyoming insists on being Wyoming even when Patagonia has opened a store next door.
“Jackson Hole has figured out something that most resort destinations never do: being genuinely wild and genuinely comfortable at the same time, without the two things canceling each other out.”
02 — Getting there
Jackson Hole Airport is one of the most spectacular landings in America.
Jackson Hole Airport (JAC)
The only commercial airport inside a national park in the United States. Direct flights from Denver, Salt Lake City, Dallas, Chicago, New York (JFK), Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Seattle. The approach over the Tetons is legitimately one of the best arrivals in American aviation.
From Salt Lake City
About 5.5 hours north via I-15 and US-89 through the Bridger-Teton National Forest. A long drive but extraordinarily scenic in the final two hours approaching the Tetons.
From Denver
About 7 hours north via I-25 and US-287. A full day’s drive — fly if you can.
Rental car
Essential for accessing the national parks and getting around the valley. Jackson has a START Bus for town transportation but the parks require a car.
03 — Four seasons
Two peaks and two under-appreciated shoulder seasons.
Winter (Dec–Mar)
Peak ski season.
JHMR at full operation. Snow quality is legendary. Elk Refuge sleigh rides. Book 6+ months out for holiday weeks.
Summer (Jun–Sep)
National parks season.
Grand Teton and Yellowstone at their best. Wildlife active. Fly fishing the Snake River. Hiking at elevation. Fully crowded — plan ahead.
Fall (Oct–Nov)
The insider’s choice.
Elk bugling in October is extraordinary. Aspen foliage in the valley. Bears active before hibernation. Significantly fewer people. Best wildlife viewing of the year.
Spring (Apr–May)
Shoulder season.
Ski mountain closing. Parks partially open. Newborn wildlife — bison calves, bear cubs. Lower rates. Roads in the parks opening progressively.
04 — Skiing Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
4,139 vertical feet. Not for the faint of heart.
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has 4,139 feet of vertical drop — more than any other resort in the continental United States — on 2,500 acres of terrain accessed by 13 lifts including the Aerial Tram, which climbs from 6,311 feet to the 10,450-foot summit of Rendezvous Mountain in 12 minutes.
The mountain breakdown
Approximately 50% expert, 40% intermediate, 10% beginner. The expert terrain — Corbet’s Couloir, the Hobacks, the Cirque — is some of the most challenging lift-served skiing in North America. The intermediate terrain on Apres Vous Mountain is legitimately good and significantly less intense. Beginners and first-timers should consider Snow King Mountain in town, or the dedicated beginner areas at the resort base, rather than the main mountain.
The Tram
The Aerial Tram climbs to 10,450 feet. Lines are long on peak days — ride it first thing in the morning or last thing before closing. The view from the summit is one of the best in Wyoming.
Corbet’s Couloir
The most famous run in American skiing — a mandatory air off the cornice into a narrow couloir. Watch from the top of the Tram. Ski it only if you’re actually ready.
Ikon Pass
JHMR is on the Ikon Pass with limited blackout dates. The pass math makes sense if you ski more than 4 days per season here.
Teton Village
The ski village at the base of JHMR has excellent lodging, restaurants, and après ski options — all ski-in/ski-out. 12 miles from downtown Jackson.
05 — Grand Teton & Yellowstone
Two of America’s best national parks, back to back.
Grand Teton National Park begins essentially at the edge of Jackson — the Teton Range rises abruptly from the valley floor with no foothills to soften the transition, creating the most dramatic mountain front in the Lower 48. The park has exceptional hiking, 150 miles of trails, Jenny Lake (one of the most beautiful alpine lakes in the country), and wildlife concentrated in the willow flats along the Snake and Gros Ventre rivers.
Yellowstone is 55 miles north of Jackson via the park road — about an hour through Grand Teton to the South Entrance, then into the caldera. Yellowstone is the world’s first national park and still its most surreal — geysers, hot springs, fumaroles, mud pots, and a wilderness ecosystem with the most intact large mammal assemblage in the continental United States.
Planning the parks
Grand Teton requires a timed entry permit for the most popular areas in summer — book at recreation.gov. Yellowstone’s parking areas fill by 9am at popular geysers in July and August. Early morning is the right strategy for both parks. A week in Jackson gives you time to explore both without rushing either.
06 — Wildlife viewing
The most wildlife per square mile in the Lower 48.
National Elk Refuge
The largest elk herd in North America winters on the refuge at the edge of Jackson — up to 11,000 animals. Sleigh rides through the herd operate December through April. One of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences in the United States.
Moose in the willow flats
The willow flats along the Snake River and Gros Ventre River hold year-round moose populations. Drive the Gros Ventre Road at dawn or dusk — moose sightings are nearly guaranteed.
Grizzly bears
Grizzly bears are active in the ecosystem from April through November. The area around Pilgrim Creek and the northern park boundary is reliable grizzly habitat. Bring binoculars — safe distances are significant.
Wolves in Yellowstone
Wolves were reintroduced to Yellowstone in 1995 and the Lamar Valley is the best place in the world to see wild wolves in their natural habitat. Early morning in the Lamar with a spotting scope is one of the great wildlife experiences on the planet.
07 — Where to stay
Town, Teton Village, or inside the park.
Where vs what
Teton Village puts you ski-in/ski-out at JHMR — right for ski trips. Downtown Jackson puts you near restaurants, the Town Square, and easier access to the wildlife areas — right for summer and fall. The lodges inside Grand Teton (Jenny Lake Lodge, Jackson Lake Lodge) are expensive and worth it if parks access is your primary reason for being there.
08 — Jackson Town Square
The elk antler arches and the saloon with saddle barstools.
Jackson’s Town Square is one of the more distinctive central plazas in the American West — four arches made from naturally shed elk antlers mark the corners, collected annually from the National Elk Refuge. The Square is lined with galleries, restaurants, outfitters, and shops.
Million Dollar Cowboy Bar
The barstools are saddles. The floor is made of silver dollars. The bar has operated since 1937. Order something, sit in a saddle, and appreciate that Wyoming is entirely committed to itself.
The Blue Lion
The intimate fine dining option in a Victorian house near the Square — the best table in Jackson for a serious dinner. Book in advance for summer and ski season.
Snake River Grill
The second serious restaurant option in Jackson — farm-to-table, excellent wine list, the right choice for a long winter dinner after a day on the mountain.
Persephone Bakery
The Jackson institution for breakfast and lunch — excellent pastries, good coffee, lines out the door in peak season but worth it. A morning ritual for Jackson regulars.
09 — Practical tips
What to know before you go.
Altitude
Jackson sits at 6,237 feet. The ski mountain summit is 10,450 feet. Give yourself a day to acclimate before a full ski day — altitude affects performance significantly, especially for first-time visitors.
Bear awareness
Grizzly bears are present throughout the ecosystem. Carry bear spray when hiking — not optional here. Know how to use it. Store food properly in bear canisters or bear boxes at campsites.
National park reservations
Grand Teton timed entry permits are required for certain areas in summer — book at recreation.gov well in advance. Yellowstone parking fills early. Plan for early morning park entry.
Weather swings fast
Wyoming mountain weather changes dramatically and quickly in any season. Layers are mandatory. Check the forecast before any day hike or activity outdoors.
Book everything early
Christmas and New Year weeks at JHMR book out 9–12 months in advance. July at the national parks is similarly committed. Spring and fall are significantly more available.
Wyoming has no state income tax
Worth knowing if you’re considering property here — Wyoming is consistently one of the most tax-friendly states for high earners and is why so many wealthy individuals have established residency in the Jackson Hole valley.
The mountain. The valley. The wildlife. Everything else comes third.
Jackson Hole earns its reputation because the primary things — the skiing, the national parks, the wildlife — are genuinely world-class. Not almost world-class. Not for an American resort. Actually world-class in the way that means people fly here from Europe and Japan specifically because of what it is. The Cowboy Bar and the antler arches are good. But the mountain at dawn, and the elk herd in November, and the grizzly on a hillside above the park road in the flat October light — those are the reasons to come, and they hold up every time.