Block Island, Rhode Island
The real guide — from someone who honeymooned here twenty-five years ago.
In this guide
01 — Why Block Island
An island that has quietly refused to become something else.
Block Island sits 13 miles off the Rhode Island coast in the Atlantic — small enough to cross by bicycle in an afternoon, large enough to get genuinely lost on its trails. The Nature Conservancy named it one of the last great places in the Western Hemisphere. Nearly 40 percent of the land is protected and will never be developed. That’s not an accident. It’s a choice the island has made, repeatedly, over decades.
Most islands at this level of beauty eventually succumb to the version of themselves that’s most profitable. The boutique hotels multiply. The chowder becomes a brand. Block Island has largely avoided this. The same weathered Victorian inns anchor Old Harbor. The same family-run restaurants serve the same honest seafood. Payne’s Donuts still rolls out of a food truck every summer morning and the line is still worth it.
“The best thing Block Island ever did for itself was nothing. It just stayed Block Island while everywhere else tried to become something more impressive.”
What you get is an island of rolling green hills that genuinely look like Ireland, 17 miles of beach in every direction, 365 freshwater ponds, two lighthouses that earn the walk to reach them, and a summer population that swells to tens of thousands without ever quite losing the thread of what makes the place worth visiting in the first place.
02 — Getting there
Two ways in. Both worth knowing.
You get to Block Island one of two ways: by ferry or by small plane. There is no bridge, no causeway, no drive-up option. That physical separation is part of what makes the island what it is — the moment you commit to getting there, you’ve already started to decompress.
The bottom line on getting there
Coming from Boston, Providence, or anywhere in southern New England: ferry from Point Judith is your route. Coming from New York or Connecticut: the New London ferry or a flight into Westerly gets you there without the long drive north. Already in Newport: the seasonal high-speed ferry is the obvious move.
03 — The ferry guide
Which ferry, from where, and what to know.
The ferry is the classic Block Island arrival — and the crossing itself is part of the experience. On a clear summer day, watching the mainland shrink behind you and the island appear on the horizon is one of those simple travel moments that stays with you. Book tickets in advance in summer.
| Route | Duration | Approx. fare | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Point Judith → BI (Traditional) | ~55 min | ~$28 adult | Cars allowed. Year-round. 6–9 round trips/day in summer. |
| Point Judith → BI (High-Speed) | ~30 min | ~$30 adult | Passenger only. Late May–mid October. Reserve ahead. |
| Newport → BI (High-Speed) | ~30 min | ~$30 adult | Seasonal. One or two round trips/day. Great if you’re already in Newport. |
| New London, CT → BI | ~2 hours | ~$35 adult | Block Island Express. Good option from NYC or CT. |
| Montauk, NY → BI | ~1.75 hours | ~$50 adult | Viking Fleet. Seasonal. Puts you on from the Hamptons end. |
Bringing your car? Read this first.
Only the traditional Point Judith ferry carries vehicles. Car reservations must be made in advance by phone — call 866-783-7996 ext. 3. In-season rates are around $130 one-way for a vehicle plus driver. Honestly: most people leave their car on the mainland. Bikes, mopeds, and taxis handle everything once you’re on the island.
04 — Flying in
Twelve minutes and you’re there.
New England Airlines has been flying the Westerly, Rhode Island to Block Island route since 1970. The flight takes 12 minutes. Twelve. You park at Westerly Airport — free parking, no pretense — board a small prop plane with a handful of other passengers, lift off over the Rhode Island coast, and land on Block Island before you’ve finished thinking about it.
Westerly is conveniently located right off Interstate 95, which means it’s accessible from anywhere along the Northeast corridor. Amtrak’s Washington-to-Boston route stops in Westerly — you can theoretically take the train from DC and fly to Block Island without a car at any point. That’s a trip worth telling people about.
New England Airlines — practical details
Year-round service. Flights depart hourly in summer. Check in 30 minutes before departure. Online reservations are not available; book by phone at 800-243-2460 or 401-596-2460. Free parking at Westerly Airport.
A newer option: Fly the Whale now offers up to nine daily round trips between Westerly and Block Island on weekdays, with fares starting around $95 each way. Visit flythewhale.com for schedules.
05 — When to go
Every season earns its own loyalty.
Summer (July–Aug)
Peak season. Book everything early.
The island is alive — all restaurants open, ferries running constantly, beaches buzzing. Book 3–6 months out for summer weekends.
Shoulder (June & Sept)
Our recommendation. The sweet spot.
Warm enough to swim, crowds thin enough to breathe. Restaurants still fully open. September light on the bluffs is extraordinary.
Fall (Oct–Nov)
For the loyal and the quiet-seekers.
The island starts to close down but never quite goes dark. Bird migration season is remarkable. Bring layers and a book.
Winter (Dec–Mar)
The island at its most honest.
Population drops to under 1,000. A handful of restaurants stay open. The ferry still runs. Quiet in a way that’s almost meditative.
“September on Block Island is what every summer destination wishes it could be in August. Same beauty, half the people, all the light.”
06 — Where to stay
Inns, cottages, and the case for renting a house.
Block Island’s lodging ranges from classic Victorian inns in Old Harbor to weathered beach cottages that feel like your grandmother’s summer house. There are no chain hotels on the island. That’s not marketing. It’s a fact, and it matters.
Historic Inn — Old Harbor
The 1661 Inn
Named for the year the island was settled. Spectacular breakfast with ocean views, happy hour on the grounds, and a location that makes everything walkable. One of the most beloved properties on the island.
Best for: couples, returning visitors, anyone who wants breakfast included and a sense of place
Historic Inn — Old Harbor
Hotel Manisses
Victorian charm in Old Harbor with a serious restaurant attached. Named for the island’s original Narragansett name. The wine list at dinner is quietly excellent.
Best for: romance, food-focused travelers
Hilltop Inn
The Atlantic Inn
21 rooms on a hilltop with unobstructed views of Old Harbor. Tennis, croquet, sunset-watching from the lawn. The outdoor bar’s tapas and wine program is a genuine destination in itself.
Best for: those who want views and a slower pace
Beachside Resort
Spring House Hotel
Grand Victorian hotel on a hill above the water with sweeping views. A Block Island institution that’s been welcoming guests since the 1850s.
Best for: classic New England resort experience
If you’re coming with family or a group — rent a house. Block Island has an excellent stock of vacation rentals: weathered beach cottages, converted farmhouses, shingled homes with porches and outdoor showers. The per-person cost usually undercuts multiple hotel rooms significantly.
Booking tip
For summer weeks and holiday weekends, start looking 4–6 months out. September and October have much better availability and often significantly lower rates. If you can go the week after Labor Day, do it.
07 — Where to eat
Honest seafood, a legendary donut truck, and Eli’s.
Block Island’s food scene punches well above its size. For an island of under 1,000 year-round residents, the restaurants are genuinely good. The focus is local seafood, seasonal ingredients, and the kind of cooking that doesn’t need to prove anything to anyone.
Payne’s Donuts
A Block Island institution. Donuts from a humble food truck, made fresh, served to a line of people who have been coming back for years — some for decades. This is your first morning on the island. You go here. That’s the rule.
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Eli’s
The bistro with devoted regulars from across New England. Named after the owners’ black lab. New American menu with serious craft cocktails, locally sourced everything. Arrive before they open and get in line. The Eli’s burger with seasoned fries is not something you skip.
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The Beachhead
Local seafood, honest prices, patio overlooking the ocean. Baked Atlantic cod, shrimp and pea pasta, lobster rolls that don’t require a second mortgage. In stormy weather, sit at the bar and watch the breakers roll in 30 feet away.
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Persephone’s Kitchen
A tiny café on Dodge Street, five minutes from the ferry. Local art on the walls, chalkboard menus, and some of the best coffee on the island. Go here the morning you arrive.
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Dead Eye Dick’s
Old Harbor classic. Find it by the 1961 black Ford Galaxie parked out front. Indoor-outdoor restaurant with a garden, great for families, classic Block Island bar energy in the evening.
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The Atlantic Inn Restaurant
Hilltop setting with sweeping views, outdoor tapas bar at sunset. Even if you’re not staying at the inn, come up for the outdoor bar as the sun goes down over the harbor.
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Block Island Oyster Bar & Grill
Marina views, half-shell platters, and the freshest local seafood on the island. Order the oysters. Order more oysters.
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08 — Things to do
What the island actually asks of you.
Walk Mohegan Bluffs
Two-hundred-foot clay cliffs on the island’s southern shore with the Atlantic stretching to the horizon below. A wooden staircase of 141 steps leads down to a secluded beach. The Southeast Lighthouse sits nearby — a brick Victorian structure originally built in the 1870s that was literally relocated 300 feet back from the eroding cliff edge in 1993.
Hike the Greenway
28 miles of protected trail crossing most of the island. The Clay Head Trail on the northeastern shore has a network of winding paths locals call “the mazes” that cut through thick brush and emerge on cliff tops overlooking the ocean. Bring the trail map from the Block Island Visitor Center.
Walk to North Lighthouse
Park at the end of Corn Neck Road and walk three-quarters of a mile across the beach to the North Lighthouse — a granite structure at the island’s northern tip with ocean on one side and a large pond on the other. It genuinely feels like the end of the world, in the best way.
Spend a full day on Crescent Beach
The long sandy stretch on the island’s eastern side. Walk north up Corn Neck Road past the quieter sections — the beach gets progressively less crowded the further from the ferry landing you get.
Kayak or sail Great Salt Pond
The 750-acre tidal lagoon on the island’s western side. Kayak rentals are available and the pond is protected enough to be manageable for most paddlers. The view back to the island from the water in the late afternoon light is one of the better things you can do here.
Do nothing, on purpose
Sit on the porch of your inn. Read the book you brought. Walk to the harbor at dusk and watch the fishing boats come in. Eat donuts from a truck and drink coffee on a bench. Block Island rewards people who came here to actually rest. Give yourself at least one full afternoon with nowhere to be.
09 — Getting around
Leave the car on the mainland.
This is the universal advice from everyone who has been to Block Island more than once: don’t bring your car. The island is seven miles long and three miles wide. Bringing a car means paying around $130 each way on the ferry and competing for limited parking.
Bicycle
Rentals widely available in Old Harbor near the ferry landing. The island is hilly — genuinely hilly — but most key destinations are reachable by bike.
Moped
Available for rental and covers ground faster with less effort. Popular with summer visitors. Check with the ferry office on current rental rules.
Taxi
A small fleet of island taxis operates during summer. They know the island, they’re often locals with strong opinions about where to eat, and the fares are reasonable.
On foot
Old Harbor itself is entirely walkable. The ferry landing, the main restaurants, the shops, and many of the inns are within a 10-minute walk of each other.
10 — Practical tips
What to know before you go.
Book the ferry early
Summer weekends sell out. High-speed ferries have limited seating. Reserve passenger tickets online at blockislandferry.com. Vehicle reservations require a phone call.
Pack for the water
It’s always cooler on the ferry than you think, and often cooler on the bluffs than on the beach. Bring a layer even in summer. The wind is real.
Ticks and trails
Block Island has ticks. Long pants for hiking, DEET, and a check after trail time is the standard protocol. Don’t let it stop you from the trails — just be sensible about it.
ATM access is limited
ATM fees are high and they run out of cash on busy weekends. Bring cash. Not all vendors and food trucks take cards, and the ones that do sometimes lose signal.
Restaurant hours vary
In shoulder season, some restaurants close certain nights. Check directly before you show up hungry on a Tuesday in October.
Parking at Point Judith
The Galilee parking lot fills fast on summer weekend mornings. Arrive before 8am or risk a long walk. Alternatively, Amtrak to Kingston, RI plus a short rideshare to the ferry is genuinely stress-free.
Go once. Go back every year.
That’s the Block Island pattern. You take the ferry for the first time not quite knowing what to expect, and you leave understanding why the people around you on the boat seem so comfortable — because they’ve done this many times before and they know exactly what they’re going back to.
Twenty-five years ago I honeymooned here and thought I’d come back when the time was right. The time has been right many times since. It always will be. Block Island doesn’t change the way places change when they figure out how profitable their beauty can be. It just keeps being Block Island.
Go. Then go back.