Block Island,
Rhode Island:
The Real Guide.
“I honeymooned on Block Island. Not as a travel writer scouting content — as a young woman in love with an island that felt like it existed outside of time. Twenty-five years later, nothing important has changed. That’s the whole point.”
In this guide
01 — Why Block Island
An island that has quietly
refused to become something else.
Block Island sits 13 miles off the Rhode Island coast in the Atlantic — small enough to cross by bicycle in an afternoon, large enough to get genuinely lost on its trails. The Nature Conservancy named it one of the last great places in the Western Hemisphere. Nearly 40 percent of the land is protected and will never be developed. That’s not an accident. It’s a choice the island has made, repeatedly, over decades.
Most islands at this level of beauty eventually succumb to the version of themselves that’s most profitable. The boutique hotels multiply. The chowder becomes a brand. The lobster rolls get a celebrity chef’s name attached. Block Island has largely avoided this. The same weathered Victorian inns anchor Old Harbor. The same family-run restaurants serve the same honest seafood. Payne’s Donuts still rolls out of a food truck every summer morning and the line is still worth it.
“The best thing Block Island ever did for itself was nothing. It just stayed Block Island while everywhere else tried to become something more impressive.”
What you get is an island of rolling green hills that genuinely look like Ireland, 17 miles of beach in every direction, 365 freshwater ponds, two lighthouses that earn the walk to reach them, and a summer population that swells to tens of thousands without ever quite losing the thread of what makes the place worth visiting in the first place.
It’s an island for people who want to slow down on purpose. Not as a Instagram caption. Actually slow down.
02 — Getting there
Two ways in.
Both worth knowing.
You get to Block Island one of two ways: by ferry or by small plane. There is no bridge, no causeway, no drive-up option. That physical separation is part of what makes the island what it is — the moment you commit to getting there, you’ve already started to decompress.
Most people take the ferry. A smaller, savvier group flies in. Both have their logic and the right choice depends on where you’re coming from, how long you’re staying, and whether the 12-minute flight in a small prop plane sounds like the beginning of an adventure or a reason to reconsider.
The bottom line on getting there
Coming from Boston, Providence, or anywhere in southern New England: ferry from Point Judith is your route. Coming from New York or Connecticut: the New London ferry or a flight into Westerly gets you there without the long drive north. Already in Newport: the seasonal high-speed ferry is the obvious move.
03 — The ferry guide
Which ferry,
from where, and what to know.
The ferry is the classic Block Island arrival — and the crossing itself is part of the experience. On a clear summer day, watching the mainland shrink behind you and the island appear on the horizon is one of those simple travel moments that stays with you. Book tickets in advance in summer. Don’t assume you’ll walk on.
Point Judith (Galilee) — the main route
Point Judith in Narragansett is where most people board. It’s the only year-round service, it’s the most frequent, and it’s the route with traditional (car-carrying) and high-speed options. Point Judith is about 30 minutes south of Providence and roughly 2.5 hours from Boston. Parking at the Galilee lot is available but fills fast on summer weekends — arrive early or book a spot in advance.
Bringing your car? Read this first.
Only the traditional Point Judith ferry carries vehicles. Car reservations must be made in advance by phone — call 866-783-7996 ext. 3. In-season rates are around $130 one-way for a vehicle plus driver. Honestly: most people leave their car on the mainland. Bikes, mopeds, and taxis handle everything once you’re on the island. The ferry itself carries bikes for about $5 each way.
The crossing experience
On the traditional ferry, go straight to the upper open deck if the weather cooperates. You’ll watch the fishing boats work the waters around Point Judith on the way out, then pick up the island on the horizon about halfway across. Bring a layer — it’s always cooler on the water than you expect, even in July. The snack bar is fine. The views are better.
04 — Flying in
Twelve minutes
and you’re there.
Here’s the option most travel guides mention in passing and then drop. Don’t drop it.
New England Airlines has been flying the Westerly, Rhode Island to Block Island route since 1970. The flight takes 12 minutes. Twelve. You park at Westerly Airport — free parking, no pretense — board a small prop plane with a handful of other passengers, lift off over the Rhode Island coast, and land on Block Island before you’ve finished thinking about it.
Westerly is conveniently located right off Interstate 95, which means it’s accessible from anywhere along the Northeast corridor. Amtrak’s Washington-to-Boston route stops in Westerly, which means you can theoretically take the train from DC, grab a quick 5-minute rideshare to the airport, and fly to Block Island without a car at any point. That’s a trip worth telling people about.
New England Airlines — practical details
Year-round service. Flights depart hourly in summer. Check in 30 minutes before departure — flights close 15 minutes prior and unclaimed seats go to standby. Online reservations are not available; book by phone at 800-243-2460 or 401-596-2460. Free parking at Westerly Airport.
A newer option: Fly the Whale now offers up to nine daily round trips between Westerly and Block Island on weekdays, with fares starting around $75 each way. Visit flythewhale.com for schedules.
The flight itself is an experience that sets the tone for the whole trip. Small planes, clear air, the Atlantic spreading out below you, and the island appearing beneath the wing exactly when you need it to. It’s old New England in the best possible way — unhurried, unpretentious, and quietly extraordinary.
Who should fly: anyone coming from New York or Connecticut who wants to skip the long drive and the ferry queue. Anyone who wants to make the arrival itself part of the trip. Anyone who has done the ferry before and wants to try something different.
05 — When to go
Every season earns
its own loyalty.
Block Island has four genuinely distinct seasons and a case to be made for each of them. The honest answer to “when should I go” is: it depends on what kind of trip you want. Here’s the breakdown.
Summer (July–Aug)
Peak season. Book everything early.
The island is alive — all restaurants open, ferries running constantly, beaches buzzing. It’s crowded by BI standards, which still isn’t crowded by most measures. Book 3–6 months out for summer weekends.
Shoulder (June & Sept)
Our recommendation. The sweet spot.
Warm enough to swim, crowds thin enough to breathe. Restaurants still fully open. September light on the bluffs is extraordinary. This is when regulars go.
Fall (Oct–Nov)
For the loyal and the quiet-seekers.
The island starts to close down but never quite goes dark. Bird migration season is remarkable. The regulars who stay all know each other. Bring layers and a book.
Winter (Dec–Mar)
The island at its most honest.
Population drops to under 1,000. A handful of restaurants stay open. The ferry still runs from Point Judith. It’s quiet in a way that’s almost meditative — for the right traveler, it’s unforgettable.
“September on Block Island is what every summer destination wishes it could be in August. Same beauty, half the people, all the light.”
One specific note for families coming from the DC area: the long Labor Day weekend trip has become something of a tradition for that drive-up-and-ferry crowd. Plan early — ferry slots and VRBO cottages for that weekend book out months in advance.
06 — Where to stay
Inns, cottages, and
the case for renting a house.
Block Island’s lodging ranges from classic Victorian inns in Old Harbor to hillside retreats with unobstructed ocean views to weathered beach cottages that feel like your grandmother’s summer house — assuming your grandmother had excellent taste. There are no chain hotels on the island. That’s not marketing. It’s a fact, and it matters.
The classic inns
Historic Inn — Old Harbor
The 1661 Inn
Named for the year the island was settled. Spectacular breakfast with ocean views, happy hour on the grounds, and a location that makes everything walkable. One of the most beloved properties on the island for decades.
Best for: couples, returning visitors, anyone who wants breakfast included and a sense of place
Historic Inn — Old Harbor
Hotel Manisses
Victorian charm in Old Harbor with a serious restaurant attached. Named for the island’s original Narragansett name. The rooms are antique-filled and intimate. The wine list at dinner is quietly excellent.
Best for: romance, food-focused travelers
Hilltop Inn
The Atlantic Inn
21 rooms on a hilltop with unobstructed views of Old Harbor. Tennis, croquet, sunset-watching from the lawn. The tapas and wine program at the outdoor bar is a genuine destination in itself.
Best for: those who want views and a slower pace
Beachside Resort
Spring House Hotel
Grand Victorian hotel on a hill above the water with sweeping views. A Block Island institution that’s been welcoming guests since the 1850s. The location makes it feel like the island’s anchor.
Best for: classic New England resort experience
The case for renting a cottage or house
If you’re coming with family, a group of friends, or anyone who benefits from shared space — rent a house. This is the most important lodging advice in this guide.
Block Island has an excellent stock of vacation rentals: weathered beach cottages, converted farmhouses, shingled homes with porches and outdoor showers and bikes leaning against the fence. The per-person cost usually undercuts multiple hotel rooms significantly. You get a kitchen, a living room, space to spread out, and the feeling of actually living on the island rather than visiting it.
Booking tip
For summer weeks and holiday weekends, start looking 4–6 months out — the good VRBO cottages on Block Island go fast and don’t come back once they’re booked. September and October have much better availability and often significantly lower rates. If you can go the week after Labor Day, do it.
07 — Where to eat
Honest seafood,
a legendary donut truck, and Eli’s.
Block Island’s food scene punches well above its size. For an island of under 1,000 year-round residents, the restaurants are genuinely good — not “good for an island” good. Actually good. The focus is local seafood, seasonal ingredients, and the kind of cooking that doesn’t need to prove anything to anyone.
A few ground rules: most restaurants don’t take reservations or have very limited slots. Arrive early or be prepared to wait. The wait, almost always, is worth it.
Payne’s Donuts
A Block Island institution. Donuts from a humble food truck, made fresh, served to a line of people who have been coming back for years — some for decades. This is your first morning on the island. You go here. That’s the rule. Generations of Block Island regulars will back us up on this.
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Eli’s
The bistro with devoted regulars from across New England. Named after the owners’ black lab. New American menu with serious craft cocktails, locally sourced everything, and a seasonal menu that changes when the ingredients tell it to. Arrive before they open and get in line. The Eli’s burger with seasoned fries is not something you skip.
$$$
The Beachhead
Local seafood, honest prices, patio overlooking the ocean. Baked Atlantic cod, shrimp and pea pasta, lobster rolls that don’t require a second mortgage. The kind of place where you don’t feel like a tourist. In stormy weather, sit at the bar and watch the breakers roll in 30 feet away.
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Persephone’s Kitchen
A tiny café on Dodge Street, five minutes from the ferry. Local art on the walls, throw pillows, greenery, chalkboard menus, and some of the best coffee on the island. Also: tea in apothecary jars and flaky pastries under glass domes. Go here the morning you arrive.
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Dead Eye Dick’s
Old Harbor classic. Find it by the 1961 black Ford Galaxie parked out front. Indoor-outdoor restaurant with a garden, great for families, classic Block Island bar energy in the evening. Consistently reliable — which on an island is its own kind of excellence.
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The Atlantic Inn Restaurant
Hilltop setting with sweeping views, outdoor tapas bar at sunset, and a wine list that takes itself seriously in the best way. Even if you’re not staying at the inn, come up for the outdoor bar as the sun goes down over the harbor. It’s one of the better happy hours in New England.
$$$
Block Island Oyster Bar & Grill
Marina views, half-shell platters, and the freshest local seafood on the island. Order the oysters. Order more oysters. This is not the place to be tentative about shellfish.
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08 — Things to do
What the island
actually asks of you.
Block Island is not an activity-packed destination in the theme park sense. There are no major attractions. There are no must-see museums. What there is: extraordinary natural landscape, 28 miles of hiking trails, two lighthouses at opposite ends of the island, beaches that genuinely vary in character, and a pace that rewards slowing down.
Walk Mohegan Bluffs
The signature natural landmark. Two-hundred-foot clay cliffs on the island’s southern shore with the Atlantic stretching to the horizon below. A wooden staircase of 141 steps leads down to a secluded beach — bring water, wear real shoes, and take your time both ways. The Southeast Lighthouse sits nearby, a brick Victorian structure originally built in the 1870s that was literally relocated 300 feet back from the eroding cliff edge in 1993. The engineering feat is almost as impressive as the view.
Hike the Greenway
28 miles of protected trail crossing most of the island. Multiple access points, varied terrain — meadow, coastal bluff, dense vegetation, open hilltop. The Clay Head Trail on the northeastern shore has a network of winding paths locals call “the mazes” that cut through thick brush and emerge on cliff tops overlooking the ocean. Bring the trail map from the Block Island Visitor Center (1 Water Street). AllTrails has current conditions.
Walk to North Lighthouse
Park at the end of Corn Neck Road and walk three-quarters of a mile across the beach to the North Lighthouse — a granite structure at the island’s northern tip with ocean on one side and a large pond on the other. It genuinely feels like the end of the world, in the best way. In season you may spot seals in the water. The lighthouse museum has limited hours; check ahead if that’s your goal, but the walk itself is the point.
Spend a full day on Crescent Beach
The long sandy stretch on the island’s eastern side. Town Beach (Fredrick J. Benson Beach) is the most popular section, with free parking along the road. Walk north up Corn Neck Road past the quieter sections. The beach gets progressively less crowded the further from the ferry landing you get — that’s always been true, and it’s still true.
Kayak or sail Great Salt Pond
The 750-acre tidal lagoon on the island’s western side shelters the main marina and a remarkable amount of wildlife. Kayak rentals are available and the pond is protected enough to be manageable for most paddlers. The view back to the island from the water in the late afternoon light is one of the better things you can do here.
Do nothing, on purpose
Sit on the porch of your inn. Read the book you brought. Walk to the harbor at dusk and watch the fishing boats come in. Eat donuts from a truck and drink coffee on a bench. Block Island rewards people who came here to actually rest, not to optimize their vacation. Give yourself at least one full afternoon with nowhere to be.
09 — Getting around
Leave the car
on the mainland.
This is the universal advice from everyone who has been to Block Island more than once: don’t bring your car. The island is seven miles long and three miles wide. Bringing a car means paying around $130 each way on the ferry, competing for the limited parking at your destination, and dealing with narrow roads that weren’t designed for modern traffic volumes.
What works instead:
Bicycle
Rentals are widely available in Old Harbor near the ferry landing. The island is hilly — genuinely hilly — but most of the key destinations are reachable by bike. Budget an hour to get comfortable with the terrain before committing to the Mohegan Bluffs ride.
Moped
Available for rental and covers ground faster with less effort. Popular with summer visitors. Note that moped tickets must be purchased day-of at the ferry car window — no advance reservations. Check in with the ferry office on current rules.
Taxi
A small fleet of island taxis operates during the summer. They know the island, they’re often locals with strong opinions about where to eat, and the fares are reasonable for the distances involved. For getting from the ferry to your inn with luggage, this is the move.
On foot
Old Harbor itself is entirely walkable. The ferry landing, the main restaurants, the shops, and many of the inns are within a 10-minute walk of each other. For trails and beaches further out, add wheels.
10 — Practical tips
What to know
before you go.
Book the ferry early
Summer weekends sell out. High-speed ferries have limited seating. Reserve passenger tickets online at blockislandferry.com. Vehicle reservations require a phone call. Don’t leave either to the last minute.
Pack for the water
It’s always cooler on the ferry than you think, and often cooler on the bluffs than on the beach. Bring a layer even in summer. The wind is real and the sun on the water is intense — sunscreen matters even on cloudy days.
Ticks and trails
Block Island has ticks. This is a fact, not a scare. Long pants for hiking, DEET, and a check after trail time is the standard protocol. Don’t let it stop you from the trails — just be sensible about it.
ATM access is limited
There are ATMs on the island but the fees are high and they run out of cash on busy weekends. Bring cash. Not all vendors and food trucks take cards, and the ones that do sometimes lose signal.
Restaurant hours vary
In shoulder season, some restaurants close certain nights or operate reduced hours. Check directly before you show up hungry on a Tuesday in October. The island’s own blockislandguide.com has current listings.
Dogs are welcome — mostly
Many trails allow leashed dogs. Some beaches restrict dogs in season. Check current rules at the Visitor Center on 1 Water Street. The ferries allow dogs with specific rules — confirm with the ferry operator when booking.
Parking at Point Judith
The Galilee parking lot fills fast on summer weekend mornings. Arrive before 8am or risk a long walk. Paid overflow lots are nearby. Alternatively, Amtrak to Kingston, RI plus a short rideshare to the ferry is a genuinely stress-free alternative if you’re coming from the Northeast corridor.
Flying? Call ahead
New England Airlines doesn’t take online reservations. Call 800-243-2460. Flights are weather-dependent in a way ferry crossings aren’t — have a backup plan if you’re flying in on a tight schedule.
Go once. Go back every year.
That’s the Block Island pattern. You take the ferry for the first time not quite knowing what to expect, and you leave understanding why the people around you on the boat seem so comfortable — because they’ve done this many times before and they know exactly what they’re going back to.
Twenty-five years ago I honeymooned here and thought I’d come back when the time was right. The time has been right many times since. It always will be. Block Island doesn’t change the way places change when they figure out how profitable their beauty can be. It just keeps being Block Island — rolling green hills, the ferry churning across the sound, Payne’s donuts in the morning, the bluffs at sunset, and the quiet satisfaction of a place that never needed your approval to know it was worth it.
Go. Then go back.